The Hind’s Head is a real, wood-lined village boozer, rather than some gastro outfit pretending to be a pub. There was half a pint of smoked prawns, served in an old fashioned dimpled glass with a pot of mayonnaise. There was a real steamed steak and kidney pudding, made with dense meaty strands of oxtail inside and suet on the outside. There was a pea and ham soup and a Lancashire hotpot. There was treacle tart and trifle and Banana Eton mess, an indulgence that tastes positively carnal.

Jay Rayner